Saturday, September 9
Whales and Dolphins
The Oshan Whale-watching tour started in Bay St. Lawrence harbor – only an 18 minute drive from the hostel. We hugged the coast for the first couple of hours; the scenery was magnificent and the sea was great – a nice mix of swells and waves. But no whales or dolphins.
We finally found a pod of pilot whales – although we saw three, Captain Cyril Fraser said there were likely four to six in the pod – just not all surfacing at the same time. A few larger dolphins also appeared. Then a large pod of Atlantic White-Sided Dolphins, which I had never seen before. Wikipedia indicates they are 8-9′ long, but the ones we saw were 2-3′ long with sharp fins and white sides – very easy to see in the water. They moved fast and were difficult to photograph from a moving boat!
Meat Cove
I wasn’t sure about going to Meat Cove – the reviews indicated a very rough drive suitable for rugged vehicles. But I’d had several recommendations to check it out, so I gave it a go. Not impassible, but I really had to pay attention and it gave me a new appreciation for paved asphalt roads. The views from the lookouts were amazing. I went as far up as I dared, just past the “beach-side camping”, which was more like cliff-side camping. Just beyond, the road was washed out with large ruts. I did a careful 6-point turn and went back down, finding the beach turnoff not far below.
The Meat Cove beach was rocky but accessible – small and awesome – although in view of the precarious campers above. I sat on my beach blanket and wrote in my journal and had cookies and tea. I was glad I went!
Back at the hostel, host Peter cautioned me about riding the brakes down the mountain slopes. My response was that my car didn’t have 1st or 2nd gear! Brand new, it was more than10 years younger than my car at home. Thankfully, Peter joined me in the rental car and helped me figure it out. I drove more safely and the advice was much appreciated.